Dill Growing and Harvest

Easy tips for growing dill in a home vegetable, kitchen, or herb garden.

Learn how to plant, grow, care for, and harvest dill plants when backyard vegetable gardening.

Flowering leads ultimately to seeding, an important part of the herbal calendar, as many plants are cultivated for their seeds.

Dill is a biennial warm-season herb, very sensitive to light-freezes and frost. Dill is not technically a perennial plant, because a single plant only lives 2 years. It is quite proficient at self seeding (if allowed). If let grow naturally, A single dill plant should come back year after year. As a seed, its used primarily for pickling (dill pickles). Seeds can also be ground or used whole to flavor meats, fish, eggs, cheese and vegetable dishes. Fresh leaves are often used in salads, soups, fish, eggs, and potatoes or as a garnish if you run out of(or get bored with) parsley. You can also make a marvelous leek and potato soup seasoned with dill.

Growing Dill in Herb and Container Gardens

When choosing sites for herbs and planning a small border, dill is best planted for the middle section. 

The plants grow 1 ½ feet to 3 ½ feet tall. 

Herbs are ideal subjects not only for conventional pots, but containers of all types. 

Dill is an also an excellent choice for planting in sunny window boxes. 

A window box makes a perfect herb garden, accessible at all times and changing with the seasons if a supply of potted plants is kept in reserve. 

Hardy and self-seeding, this fern-like plant attracts honeybees when allowed to mature to 2 or 3 feet tall.

Growing dill needs just 8 inch spacing on all sides.

If harvested young, it can be inter-planted with cucumbers, cabbage, onions, lettuce, and carrots.

Dill weed is a tasty addition to soups, salads, creamed entrees, and cheese or tofu dips.

It is also a staple in making vinegars and pickles.

How to Grow Dill

Seeds germinate in 21 days. 

Sow seeds directly in the garden after last frost. 

For transplants, start seeds 8 to 10 weeks before setting out, which can be done after last frost. 

For a fall harvest, sow seeds directly in the garden in July

Planting Dill

Dill does best in moderately rich, well-drained, moist soil. 

The preferred pH range is 5.0 to 7.0. 

Grow dill around fruit trees since it attracts pollinating bees. 

The herb is known as a growth-enhancing companion around cole crops, lettuce, and onions. 

It also has the reputation to repel insects from corn. 

Make succession plantings every three weeks from May to August for a fresh supply of leaves and seeds.

Harvesting Dill

Harvest a few leaves as needed from plants throughout the season. They are at their best before flower heads develop. The leaves, known as dill weed, can be dried. Seeds heads are ready for harvest 8 weeks after planting. Let them turn completely brown prior to picking, but catch them before they shatter. 

Pear (Pyrus Communis) and Benefits

Sweet, delicious and rich flavored pears offer crunchiness of apples yet juicy as peach and nectarine. They are widely popular, particularly in the whole of the northern hemisphere, for their unique nutrient qualities.

Botanically, it is a "pome fruit” produced in the Rosaceae family of trees, in the Pyrus genus. Pome fruit plants are an average sized trees found in semi-tropical regions around the northern hemisphere. They bear medium-size fruits that characteristically have several small seeds at its center encased in tough coat. The members of pome family fruits include apple, loquat, quince, medlar...etc.

Scientific name: Pyrus communis

Types of Pears:

Pears are classified into Asian pears and European pears. Asian pear varieties have a firm texture, which does not change after harvesting or storage. European pears turn soft and juicy when they ripen completely. There are almost 3000 varieties of pears found across the world. Some of the most common varieties of pears include:

Bosc: It is a cinnamon brown colored pear, with a long, tapered neck and honey-like flavor.

Bartlett: Bartlett is considered the best variety of pear. It comes in colors like yellow and green.

Comice: Comice is a round, short pear with red or green colorings. It has a soft and juicy flesh.

Forelle: Forelle is a green pear and is speckled like a trout. It is a small-sized pear which turns yellow as it ripens.

Green Anjou: Green Anjou is a short-necked and compact pear which doesn’t change color while ripening.

Red Anjou: Red Anjou, as the name indicates, is rich red in color. This variety of pear has high amounts of anthocyanin in it.

Red Bartlett: Red Bartlett is bright red in color with brown vertical stripes.

Seckel: Seckel is the smallest variety of pear available. It is usually yellow or olive green in color with broad red patches.

Starkrimson: Starkrimson is a narrow-necked pear, which is bright crimson red in color. This variety of pear looks amazing in salads.

Health Benefits of Pear Fruit:

The humble fruit is packed with tons of health benefits. Some of the most popular pear health benefits include:

1. Mental Health:

A medium-sized pear provides about 15 percent of our daily recommended copper requirement. Copper is an essential mineral required for a healthy central nervous system. The copper ions affect the component that is responsible for making the neural synapses stronger or weaker. This change affects our ability to learn and remember. The antioxidant, quercetin, found in pears also protects us from Alzheimer’s disease.

2. Antioxidants:

The skin of the pear comprises of more phenolic phytonutrients than the flesh. These include antioxidants, anti-inflammatory flavonoids and even anti-cancer phyto-nutrients like cinnamic acid. Antioxidants prevent infection and keep the immune system strong. It also protects the cells from the damage caused by free radicals.

3. Vitamin K:

Vitamin K in pears prevents blood clotting and improves blood circulation in the body. A study has found that the risk of developing lymphoma was around 45% lower in people who regularly consumed high amounts of Vitamin K.

4. Cancer:

The health benefits of pear extend into the area of cancer risk as well. Fiber in pear binds together with a special group of secondary bile acids. Excessive amounts of secondary bile acid can increase the risk of colorectal cancer. By binding together with the secondary bile acids, pears help to lower the risk of cancer. The hydroxycinnamic acid found in pears prevents lung and stomach cancer. Quercetin, an antioxidant found in the skin of pears, also prevents cancer.

5. Macular Degeneration:

Eating three or more servings of pear daily lowers the risk of macular degeneration, the primary cause of vision loss in elderly people.

6. Heart health:

Pears are a good source of glutathione, an antioxidant, which controls high blood pressure and reduces the risk of strokes. It contains potassium, a mineral, which maintains the health of the heart. Quercetin also prevents artery damage that can cause heart disease. The high levels of pectin in pears lower cholesterol in the body.

7. Anti-inflammatory:

Pears contain phytonutrients, which are known to have anti-inflammatory properties. The anti-inflammatory properties are very beneficial for relieving stomach pain and other common chronic inflammations.

8. Fiber:

Pear is one of the best fiber-rich foods. A medium-sized pear provides up to 30 grams of fiber, including pectin, which helps in toning the intestines and lowering the cholesterol levels. A high fiber diet prevents a bloated belly caused by constipation, while preventing painful hemorrhoids. Fiber also helps to absorb vitamins and minerals from the food.

9. Diabetes:

Certain flavonoids found in pear improve insulin sensitivity in the body. This decreases the risk of type 2 diabetes in both men and women. Therefore, consuming pears fro diabetes helps.

10. Bone Health:

Pears contain boron, a mineral which aids the body to retain calcium. The fruit may, therefore, help in preventing osteoporosis.

11. Folate:

Folate is an essential mineral required for the well-being of the fetus and pregnant women. It prevents neural tube defects in infants. Thus, it is advisable for pregnant women to eat one pear daily during their pregnancy.

12. Throat:

The anti-inflammatory properties of pears help to clear the phlegm from the body for the proper functioning of our respiratory organs. Boil two Chinese pears with raw honey and drink this while warm to soothe the throat and vocal cords. Drink pear juice twice daily to prevent further throat problems.

Skin Benefits of Pear Fruit:

13. Treats Acne, Pimples & Other Skin Infections:

Pears are recommended for the treatment of acne due to the high amounts of vitamins and minerals in it. This fruit boosts the immunity system and enables the skin to fight against acne, pimples and other skin infections.

14. Indirectly Keeps Skin Smooth & Supple:

Pears are full of fiber, a nutrient which prevents fluctuation of sugar spikes. Sugar spikes can damage collagen, a protein that keeps the skin smooth and supple.

15. Regulates Skin’s pH Balance:

You can use pears in the form of a face pack for oily skin. Add a teaspoon of honey and one teaspoon of whipped cream to a mashed pear. Apply the mixture on the face and neck, and wash it off after 15 minutes. The minerals present in pears neutralize skin acids and help in regulating the pH balance of the skin.

Hair Benefits of Pear Fruit:

16. Nourishes, Scalp, Hair Roots & Follicles:

Pears contain several hair-friendly nutrients, which are beneficial for maintaining the health of the hair. Ripe pears contain natural sugar called glucitol, which nourishes the scalp, feeds the hair roots and keeps the hair follicles hydrated.

17. Treats Dandruff & Scalp Psoriasis:

The moisturizing properties of pears are useful for reducing the dryness of the scalp. This keeps dandruff, scalp psoriasis and flaking at bay.

18. For Shiny & Smooth Hair:

You can also prepare a natural hair mask for treating dull and dry hair. Mix the extract of one ripe pear with two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar and water. Apply this hair mask on the scalp and hair, half an hour before shampooing. Wash it off to witness shiny and smooth hair.

Samanea Saman Greenfield Rain Tree

Monkey-pod (Pithecellobium saman), samán in Spanish, is a fast-growing tree that has been introduced to many tropical countries throughout the world from its native habitats in Central America and northern South America. Although generally planted as a shade tree and ornamental, it has been naturalized in many countries and is greatly valued in pastures as shade for cattle. Short-boled, with a spreading crown when open grown, it forms a long, relatively straight stem when closely spaced. Its wood is highly valued in some locations for carvings and furniture.

The most widely used common name for the species is rain tree, from the belief that the tree produces rain at night. The leaflets close up at night or when under heavy cloud cover, allowing rain to pass easily through the crown. This trait may contribute to the frequently observed fact that grass remains green under the trees in times of drought. However, the shading effect of the crown, the addition of nitrogen to the soil by decomposition of litter from this leguminous tree, and possibly, the sticky droppings of cicada insects in the trees all contribute to this phenomenon . The Hawaiian common name, monkey-pod, is used here because it is a logical derivation of the scientific name Pithecellobium (monkey earring in Greek). Besides monkey-pod, rain tree, and saman, which is its name throughout Latin America, the tree is called mimosa in the Philippines.

Germination Tips 

Step 1 :

Fill a pot with water that equals five times the seed volume and bring it to a boil on a stove. Check the temperature of the water with a cooking thermometer, and when it reaches 176 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the pot from the stove. 

Step 2:

Place the monkey pod tree seeds in the hot water and stir them for up to two minutes with a spoon before draining the liquid. 

Step 3:

Fill a bowl with lukewarm water that's between 86 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit and soak the seeds in it for 24 hours. This pre-treatment is called scarification and alters the hard seed coat, which increases the chances of uniform germination. 

Step 4:

Fill a pot with moist seed-starting mix up to 1 inch from the top, place the seed on top of the surface and cover it with a 1/2-inch layer of the mix. Tamp down lightly and moisten the surface with a water-filled spray bottle to avoid washing away the seed. 

step 5:

Cover tightly  plastic polythene wrap over the pot to promote soil moisture retention and place it in a dimly lit area of the house. Lift the plastic daily to check that the soil is moist. If not, lightly moisten it with a water-filled spray bottle before replacing the plastic. Expect germination within three to five days. 

Step 6:

Remove the plastic as soon as the seedlings emerge, and gradually move the pot to a brighter area over a two-week period so that at the end of that time they're acclimated to being in full sunlight. 

Step 7:

Transplant the seedlings outside to an area with full sun and well-draining soil after three to five months, when the seedlings are about 8 to 12 inches tall. 

Your Requires

Pot 

Cooking thermometer 

Spoon 

Bowl 

Seed-starting mix 

Spray bottle 

Plastic wrap

Tomato Fusarium Wilt

If your tomato plants wilted and yellow on one side of the plant or one side of a leaf, they have Fusarium wilt. Fusarium wilt on tomatoes caused by Fusarium oxysporumsp. lycopersici. It is a fungus soilborn found in the United States, especially in hot regions of the country. The organism is specific to tomato and many longlived in all regions of the United States. The disease develops rapidly in soils that are high in nitrogen and low in potassium. In addition, plants grown in sandy soil tends to contract the disease more often.

Symptoms

Wilting is the most characteristic symptom of infection by Verticillium spp. Symptoms usually appear on the lower leaves in mid-August when infected plants wilt during the warmest part of the day, and then recover at night. Leaf edges and areas between the veins turn yellow and then brown. In addition, infected plants often have a characteristic V-shaped lesion at the edge of the leaf occurring in a fan pattern. These foliar lesions can enlarge, resulting in complete browning and death of the leaves.

Verticillium wilt can be detected by looking for the presence of vascular streaking in stems near the ground. When cut longitudinally, Verticillium-infected stems show a light tan discoloration of the vascular tissue (Figure 1).

Fig - 1

These symptoms are similar to those caused by another fungus, Fusarium, but vascular streaking caused by Fusarium is generally darker and progresses further up the stem than streaking caused by Verticillium. Infected potato tubers may also show similar vascular discoloration occurring in rings, especially near the stem end (Figure 2). Although discolored, the tubers are safe to eat.

Fig 2

Wilt caused by this disease may be differentiated from drought-stress based on the portion of the plant that is wilting and on the location of wilted plants. Diseased plants often have only a portion of the plant wilting, such as one or two stems (Figure 3). 

Fig 3

In addition, diseased plants usually appear in patches within the growing area (Figure 4). Plants suffering from drought, however, are uniformly wilted and occur throughout the growing area.

Fig 4

Life Cycle

The fungi causing this disease overwinter in the soil as mycelium or on plant debris as microsclerotia. The fungi infect a susceptible host through wounds in the roots caused by cultivation, nematodes (microscopic worms), or the formation of secondary roots. This disease is considered a cool-weather disease, developing between 65° and 83°F.

Management

Because Fusarium and Verticillium fungi are widespread and persist several years in soil, a long crop rotation (4 to 6 years) is necessary to reduce populations of these fungi. Avoid using any solanaceous crop (potato, tomato, pepper, eggplant) in the rotation, and if Verticillium wilt is a problem, also avoid the use of strawberries and raspberries, which are highly susceptible. Rotate with cereals and grasses wherever possible.

Keep rotational crops weed-free (there are many weeds hosts of Verticillium).

Whenever practical, remove and destroy infested plant material after harvest.

Maintain a high level of plant vigor with appropriate fertilization and irrigation, but do not over-irrigate, especially early in the season.

Plant disease resistant tomato varieties, labeled V (for Verticillium) and F (for Fusarium). These disease resistance designations are usually shown in seed catalogues. Fusarium- or Verticillium-resistant varieties of eggplant, potato, and pepper are generally not available.

If soils are severely infested, production of solanaceous crops may not be possible unless soil fumigation is an option. See the Ohio Vegetable Production Guide (OSU Extension Bulletin No. 672) for information on soil fumigation.

Petunias & Petunia, Wave Hybrids Germination,Cultivation, Growing

Petunia x hybrida WAVE

Solanaceae Family

Wave Petunias are a popular group of hybrids valued for their large, colorful blooms and unique creeping growing habit. Spreading up to 4 feet, these plants add huge mats of color to gardens and containers. Unlike most petunias, these bloom without getting leggy by midseason. 

Origin : 

The species was first sent from South America to Paris in 1823. It was discovered in South America by the explorer James Tweedie, (after whom the genus Tweedia is named), who sent specimens to the Glasgow Botanical Garden in 1831. Most of the varieties seen in gardens are hybrids (Petunia x hybrida), they were among the first ornamentals to be bred for the bedding plant market in the 1950s.

• Characteristics :

Sunlight: full sun

Soil conditions : requires well-drained soil

Prefers moist but well-drained soil.

Special locations:outdoor containers,xeriscapes

•  Plant Traits

Lifecycle: annual

Ease-of-care: easy

Height: 0.66 to 1 feet

Spread: 1 to 4 feet

Bloom time:

1.     early summer
2.     mid-summer
3.     late summer
4.     early fall
5.     mid-fall

Flower color:

    violet

    white

    pink

Flowers are up to 4” wide and trumpet-shaped.

Foliage color: medium green

Foliage texture: medium

Shape: spreading mass

Shape in flower: same as above

Special characteristics:

•     non-aggressive
•     non-invasive
•     not native to North America - Hybrid with South American parents.

Growing Information

How to plant:

Propagate by seed - Sow the seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost, leaving the seeds uncovered as light aids germination. Pre-started petunias are readily available at retail outlets.

Germination temperature: 80 F

Days to emergence: 7 to 10

Maintenance and care :

Wave hybrids don't need deadheading or cutting back like many other petunias. Fertilize every two weeks until midsummer. 

Pests:

 Parasitic nematodes 

Diseases:

•     Oedema
•     Powdery mildew
•     Botrytis blight
•     Sclerotinia stem rot
•     Viral diseases 

Sowing :

To sow seeds in the house, from February 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Petunias bloom in the morning and covered with flowers are stunning. They like the sun and often bloom within two months from seed and continue throughout the season until killed by the frost. They are easily cultivated, requiring rich soil and full sun. They grow best in high-moisture areas with well-drained soils, but can adapt to most soil types. For Established the plants need  less maintenance require dry weather than other plants.

Seed 6 mm (¼ inch) apart in rows 7 cm (3 inches) mm, that's for sure stand (especially the corners), so it is not eaten with irrigation. Do not cover the seed, as the seeds need light to germinate. 

Provide light and constant warmth of 21 to 27°C (70 to 80°F)   respectively. In fact, the heat source from bottom to the use of the best results . F2 hybrids tend at the end of the previous germinate much better at about 27c (80f).  F2 hybrids tend to germinate better at the higher end, at around 27C (80F). The soil temp should not fluctuate and must not drop below 21°C (70°F). Finely mist and cover seed tray with plastic or paper to conserve moisture.

Need to check the compost for dryness regularly.  Add a little warm clean water from below, if this is the case, being careful not to over water. Dont use too much water ,can die seedlings, as it can spread "damping off fungi", and encourage other moulds and diseases.  

Germination :

Usually seed takes 10 to 21 days for germination and it depending on soil and temperature conditions. After sprout the seeds remove cover as soon as possible. Keep moist but do not use cold water as it lowers the soil temp and weakens tender seedlings.

Transplant and grow on in cooler conditions, around 13 to 16°C (55 to 60°F) for stocky plants when seedlings are large enough to handle.  Acclimatize to outdoor conditions for 10 to 15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 30cm (12in) apart in a sunny spot on light well drained soil. For pot plants, transplant the seedlings into 7.5cm (3in) pots, grow cool, well ventilated and give plenty of light, but shade from direct sun.

Cultivation :

When plants are 5 to 10cm (2 to 4in) tall, and ground is warm, transplant to their final positions in pots or into the garden, spacing 20 to 30cm (8 to12in) apart. Plant should be  a full sun location. They will tolerate light shade but blooming will be reduced. Use a low-nitrogen/high-phosphorus fertilizer sparingly. Do not overwater or over fertilize, Overwatering will  kill the plants. 

After planting into baskets, when established give them a good spray from a watering can. The weight of the water flow will produce a perfect cascading habit.

Pinch or shear when 15cm (6in) tall and keep faded flowers picked, for denser plants and more flowers, 

Petunias are sticky and will attract greenfly so keep an eye on them. Don't over water in the winter and keep them well ventilated.

Site and soil :

The most important requirement for growing petunias successfully is a location with plenty of light. Petunias need at least five or six hours of good sunlight; they'll perform even better when located in full sun all day. The more shade they receive, the fewer flowers they'll produce. Impatiens are a better choice for blooming in shady places.

While soil needn't be terribly rich to grow good petunias, it must drain decently. It's always useful to improve garden soil by conditioning it with organic matter, such as baled peat moss, well-rotted leaf compost or manure.

Spread the organic matter two to three inches thick. Then incorporate it into the soil to a depth of eight to ten inches, using a rototiller or garden fork. This helps open up heavy clay soil, which improves drainage, but can also increase the ability of light, sandy soil to hold moisture and nutrients.

Fertilizer and water :

Work a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8, 10-10-10, or 12-12-12 into garden soil at a rate of two pounds per hundred square feet. Later--early to mid-July--begin to use liquid fertilizer every three weeks (weekly for "spreading" petunias). Once the plants have begun to spread, it will be much easier to water this solution into the soil than to side dress with dry fertilizer.

Incorporate timed-release fertilizer into the soil when planting window boxes or other containers. Otherwise fertilize regularly every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer meant specially for flowering plants. ("Spreading" types require weekly fertilizing.)

For a fertilizer recommendation tailor made to your specific garden conditions, have an accurate soil test run. Contact your local County Extension office or the Soil Testing Lab at the University of Minnesota for information.

Petunias tolerate lots of heat, and are relatively undemanding when it comes to water. Except for "spreading" types, which require frequent watering, thorough watering once a week should be sufficient in all but the worst weather. Leave sprinklers on long enough to soak the soil to a depth of six to eight inches every time you water. Hanging baskets and other containers also need more frequent watering, perhaps as often as daily, depending on their size and the volume of soil they contain.

Plant Uses : 

Window boxes, containers, tubs, hanging baskets and pot plants. 

How to Plant Flowers from Root Divisions (Perennials Only)

While the beginning of a flower from seed, transplanting from cuttings can be used for both annual and perennial flowers, only perennial plants can be propagated by root divisions.

Plant root sections have two purposes:

1.  It reinvigorates the flowering perennials currently in your garden, producing fuller plants and more flowers.

Why would remove a plant from the ground and cut its roots help rather than hurt it?

All year growth of a perennial says it continues to develop new roots and new shoots sprout. All those new parts of the plant to compete for the same water, sunlight and nutrients, so that each member gets proportionally less of it needs as time goes on. The distribution of the roots and replanting them allow each part of the now larger root system it needs to flourish get.

2. Free plants - Since each plant's root system some several times can be divided, it will give additional plants no extra cost.

Do not want to expand your flower garden? Share a neighbor! No neighbors? Add the extra compost heap.

In general, perennial flowering plants should be divided every three years, but there are exceptions. Rather than setting a division schedule, it might be better to take your plants and they split when all signs began to appear:

• Weaker or smaller tribes
• Fewer flowers
• Yellow or light green stems or leaves
• Plant begins to die at the center of forest

To divide the roots ...

1. Wait until it blossomed into the plant when your climate is cool and wet - usually in spring or autumn. This will vary from region and the perennial you share. If in the autumn, give the roots at least two months to repair themselves before the ground freezes.
2. Prepare the planting site ahead of time to the time of land to a minimum. The hole should be two times bigger than the original root system with a little seaweed fertilizer liquid is added to the hole in preparation for the new resident.
3. The plant water the day before you cut it.
4. Cut overhead grows to about 6 inches (15 cm) above the ground.
5. When digging the planting, keep the root ball together by digging with a shovel about a foot (30 cm) to the base of the plant and prying it from the bottom.
6. When drag it out of the ground, NOT shake any land.
7. Divide the roots based on the type of root system (indicated for each plant in our Flower Growing Guide):

• Planted - compact root system with shoots that emerge from buds to the original crown. Use a shovel or machete to cut the crown in as many pieces as you want, but be sure each piece has at least a few buds attached.
• Spread - roots are relatively shallow, spreading away from the original crown and is separate from the original crown with a partially separate root system. Just pull each individual root system apart with your hands.
• Rhizome - very thick stems that spread away from the original plant (Ginger is a rhizome). Use a knife to divide them into sections, each with a few bumps.
• Root tubers - a "modified lateral root" that was converted to a food storage organ (a yam is a tuber). They serve nutrients for plants using storage off-season.

8.  Plant the divisions serve with the crown just above its previous level above the ground.

9.  Water and beat down the ground to the point that there is probably no underground holes remaining. The level of the crown above the ground now at the point of the original plant.

10.  Keep the soil moist consistently for at least the next few weeks.

How to Plant Flowers by Transplanting

Transplant refers to taking a pre-mature planting and replanting it in your garden.

When purchasing plants for transplanting, look for the following characteristics:

• General "healthy looking" plants
• White and "fleshy" roots (as opposed to brown roots) that the container fill
• Dark green leaves
• Plants without full of flowers (they will be much better a few weeks after planting seems)

When transplanting flowers ...

• Do as early as possible in the spring after all danger of frost passes
• Harden off your flowers - Flowers bought for transplanting tar nurtured in a greenhouse because they were seeds, and they need to gradually be introduced to the harder outside environment before going into the ground. This process is known as "hardening off plants."

Hard on your flowers:

• Day 1 - Let them out for 4 hours in the sun levels guidelines each plant (ie the sun, partial shade, full shade) match
• Day 2 - Let them out for 6 hours
• Day 3 - Leave them outside for 8 hours
• Day 4 - Transplant in your garden or flower bed

1. The day before transplant, watering the plants with about an inch (2.5 cm) of water
2. Just before you are ready to plant, remove the soil from the container some with roots and soil structure left intact. If there are several flowers growing in the tray, cut the ground between the plants for removing each plant.
3. If the roots tightly around the ground some make several shallow cuts around encouraging the forest to the roots to grow out into the soil
4. Lightly wet the hole before transplanting to the point that it consistently moist (about the texture of a wrung-out sponge)
5. Plant at a depth corresponding to the depth of the plant when it was in the container (same goes for planting peat pots ... puts the whole peat pot in the ground so that the ground level of the peat pot matches the ground Garden's)
6. After placing the wood in the soil, packing the surrounding soil around the bush then fertilize with a liquid organic fertilizer.
7. Until established (at least a few weeks), keep the plants well watered to the point that the surrounding soil remains consistently moist.

Crown Rot Identification And Tips For Treatment

Crown Rot is caused by the Phytophthora fungus, which attacks the roots and, most notably, the crown of African Violets. African Violets are most susceptible to Crown Rot when allowed to sit in soil that is heavy and soggy. In almost all cases, Crown Rot is fatal. The best control for Crown Rot is, therefore, prevention.

Distinguishing Symptoms

• Crown is mushy. It may appear translucent brown with a soft, jelly-like consistency.
• Crown darkens. It appears brown or black in color. 

These symptoms indicate that the crown is rotting. If your African Violet has these symptoms, it probably has Crown Rot.

Other Symptoms

• Crown has a weblike substance on it. (Note: This substance should not be confused with the web left behind by Spider Mites, which clings to the flowers and plant hairs of the leaves. Nor should it be confused with the "cotton" specks which characterize Leaf Mealy Bugs.)
• Leaves have a weblike substance on them.
• Leaves darken. They appear brown or black in color.
• Leaves wilt. They may appear translucent brown with a soft, jelly-like consistency.
• Plant growth is slow. 

BIOLOGY

Phytophthora species are soil-inhabiting pathogens that are favored by wet conditions. Although previously considered fungi, Phytophthora species are now considered to be in a separate classification called oomycetes. Species of Phytophthora produce resting spores that survive for years in moist soil in the absence of a suitable host. However, if the soil is completely dried out, these spores are less likely to survive for more than a few months. When a host is nearby and free water (water in soil pore spaces) is present in the soil, resting spores germinate to produce motile spores that can directly penetrate roots, branches, or crowns as long as free water is present. Wounds are not required for infection. Resting spores, decaying host tissue in the soil, and active cankers (disease-infected dead, sunken lesions in plant parts) can all be sources for new infections. The pathogen can be spread in splashing rain or irrigation water, in surface irrigation, and runoff water, and by movement of contaminated soil, equipment, or plant parts. Flooded and saturated soil favors the spread of Phytophthora to healthy plants.Some Phytophthora species are favored by warm weather, some by cool weather. Root rots of avocado, citrus, and tomato are favored by warm conditions, developing most extensively in late spring and early summer. Decay of crown, trunk, and branches of other tree species are favored by cool, wet conditions. These decays develop most rapidly in late fall and early spring.

Treatment

The most important factor in reducing the threat of Phytophthora rot is good water management. Avoid prolonged saturation of the soil or standing water around the base of trees or other susceptible plants. Irrigate only as much and as often as necessary; in an orchard, keep track of the soil moisture around each tree and water only when necessary. If you irrigate trees with sprinklers, use low-angle sprinkler heads and splitters to avoid wetting the trunk and lower branches. If using a drip system, place the emitters at least a foot away from the trunk. Avoid planting susceptible species on poorly drained or shallow soils. Water stress and/or salinity make some plant species more susceptible to infection when wetted subsequently by irrigation or rains.For all vegetable and orchard plants, provide good soil drainage. Good soil drainage is best provided before planting. Drainage should be plentiful to the rooting depth of the plants, generally 3 to 6 feet for trees, 2 to 4 feet for shrubs, and 1 to 2 feet for bedding plants. During favorable weather you do not want the roots and crown of a plant to remain wet for the 4 to 8 hours that are required for Phytophthora to infect the plant.Provide adequate drainage by breaking through soil compaction and hardpan. In poorly drained soils, or in an area where you know Phytophthora is present, consider planting trees and shrubs on mounds. The mounds should be 8 to 10 inches high. Planting depth after settling should be no deeper than as received from the nursery, with the upper roots near the soil level and the graft union well above the soil line. Do not install irrigated turf around the base of trees, remove all weeds, and do not water the crown area directly. Never cover the graft union with soil or mulch. If you are not sure where the graft union is, ask someone at the nursery to show you and mark it. Raised beds provide good drainage in vegetable garden situations also. Group plants according to their irrigation needs. Separate those needing frequent, light irrigations, such as potatoes and strawberries, from those needing infrequent, deep irrigations, such as tomatoes and melons. At the first signs of aboveground symptoms, examine the tree at the soil line for crown rot. Carefully cut away bark that looks affected. If crown rot is present, trees can sometimes be saved by removing soil from the base of the tree down to the top of the main roots and allowing the crown tissue to dry out.

Sanitation

It may be possible to slow the spread of Phytophthora within an orchard by avoiding movement of infested soil, water, and plant parts from an area where Phytophthora rot has developed. Surface and subsurface drainage water and anything that can move moist soil can carry the pathogen to a new area, including boots, car tires, and tools. If the physical setting allows drainage water to flow from infested to uninfected areas within the garden during wet weather, consider putting in drains to channel the water away from healthy plants.

Selection of planting stock

Plant only certified nursery stock from a reputable source, and choose the most resistant rootstocks or varieties available for your area. Less susceptible rootstocks or varieties are available for almonds and stone fruit, apples, cauliflower, and strawberries. Carefully select individual plants that are free of symptoms and/or that come from healthy lots of material.

RotationIf tomatoes have been affected by Phytophthora root rot, avoid planting tomatoes or other susceptible plants such as eggplant or peppers in the same soil for at least one or two seasons. Plant a resistant crop such as corn instead, or leave the soil unplanted and do not irrigate, but keep it well worked to allow the soil to dry as deeply as possible. Different species of Phytophthora attack beans and cole crops, so these plants can be substituted as well. Consult a nursery or farm advisor for possible alternatives in your area.

Chemical control

The most effective way of preventing Phytophthora rot diseases is to provide good drainage and to practice good water management. Along with the appropriate cultural controls, the fungicide fosetyl-al (Aliette) may be used on a number of ornamental plant species to help prevent Phytophthora infections. When applied as a foliar spray it is absorbed by foliage and moves into roots. However, do not rely on fungicide applications alone to control root and crown rot diseases.

Prevention

Prevention is always your best bet for successfully controlling Crown Rot. By adhering to the following guidelines, you will give your African Violets the best chance for eliminating any threat of Crown Rot.

Do not overwater. This is the greatest danger to African Violets. Overwatering leaves the soil soggy, a condition that is ripe for the development of Crown Rot. Water just enough to keep the soil damp. Always allow any excess water to drain. If you are using a self-watering device, which employs capillary wicking, make sure the pot is not in direct contact with the water. Also, it is strongly recommended that you only use wicks supplied by the manufacturer of the watering device.

Do not let the soil dry out completely before watering. Repeated, sudden changes in the availability of water can cause the same effects as overwatering.

Do not use a pot size that is larger than what your African Violet needs to form a tight rootball. If the pot size is too large, your Violet will not be able to absorb all the water, leaving the plant susceptible to the soggy conditions in which 

Crown Rot thrives.

Make sure the pot you use provides adequate drainage. If you are using a plastic pot which has no holes, you can easily add holes yourself with a soldering iron or by simply heating up a screwdriver and pushing it through the bottom of the pot. If you are using a terra cotta pot which has no holes, you can add holes with a drill. For 4-inch pots, use a 1/8-1/4 inch bit and drill from the bottom. Do not press too hard. Go slowly and let the drill do the work.

Use a light, porous potting soil. An ideal potting soil will consist of block-harvested, sphagnum peat moss. Such a potting soil allows any excess water to drain away from the roots. Be sure to pasteurize your potting soil.

Maintain good air circulation around your plants. Keep your growing area clean, and remove spent flowers and leaves as you find them.

Finally, you should strongly consider using a recommended self-watering device. Such devices use capillary action to draw the right amount of water into the soil. This prevents both overwatering and underwatering. For miniatures, there is the MiniWell (fits 1-inch pots) and the Optimara WaterShip (fits 2-inch pots). For larger African Violets, there is the MaxiWell (fits 4-inch pots) and the Watermaid (fits various sizes up to 6 inches.) Each of these self-watering devices is available at a number of hardware and discount stores. In addition, they can also be ordered online from the Selective Gardener, a mail order supplier that specializes in plant care products for African Violets.

Important Note on the Use of Pesticides

Please note that almost all pesticides are formulated for specific uses and conditions. When applied incorrectly, pesticides can cause ill health or damage to plants. Therefore, when using any kind of pesticide or chemical treatment, 

always apply as indicated on the product label.