How to Plant Flowers from Root Divisions (Perennials Only)

While the beginning of a flower from seed, transplanting from cuttings can be used for both annual and perennial flowers, only perennial plants can be propagated by root divisions.

Plant root sections have two purposes:

1.  It reinvigorates the flowering perennials currently in your garden, producing fuller plants and more flowers.

Why would remove a plant from the ground and cut its roots help rather than hurt it?

All year growth of a perennial says it continues to develop new roots and new shoots sprout. All those new parts of the plant to compete for the same water, sunlight and nutrients, so that each member gets proportionally less of it needs as time goes on. The distribution of the roots and replanting them allow each part of the now larger root system it needs to flourish get.

2. Free plants - Since each plant's root system some several times can be divided, it will give additional plants no extra cost.

Do not want to expand your flower garden? Share a neighbor! No neighbors? Add the extra compost heap.

In general, perennial flowering plants should be divided every three years, but there are exceptions. Rather than setting a division schedule, it might be better to take your plants and they split when all signs began to appear:

• Weaker or smaller tribes
• Fewer flowers
• Yellow or light green stems or leaves
• Plant begins to die at the center of forest

To divide the roots ...

1. Wait until it blossomed into the plant when your climate is cool and wet - usually in spring or autumn. This will vary from region and the perennial you share. If in the autumn, give the roots at least two months to repair themselves before the ground freezes.
2. Prepare the planting site ahead of time to the time of land to a minimum. The hole should be two times bigger than the original root system with a little seaweed fertilizer liquid is added to the hole in preparation for the new resident.
3. The plant water the day before you cut it.
4. Cut overhead grows to about 6 inches (15 cm) above the ground.
5. When digging the planting, keep the root ball together by digging with a shovel about a foot (30 cm) to the base of the plant and prying it from the bottom.
6. When drag it out of the ground, NOT shake any land.
7. Divide the roots based on the type of root system (indicated for each plant in our Flower Growing Guide):

• Planted - compact root system with shoots that emerge from buds to the original crown. Use a shovel or machete to cut the crown in as many pieces as you want, but be sure each piece has at least a few buds attached.
• Spread - roots are relatively shallow, spreading away from the original crown and is separate from the original crown with a partially separate root system. Just pull each individual root system apart with your hands.
• Rhizome - very thick stems that spread away from the original plant (Ginger is a rhizome). Use a knife to divide them into sections, each with a few bumps.
• Root tubers - a "modified lateral root" that was converted to a food storage organ (a yam is a tuber). They serve nutrients for plants using storage off-season.

8.  Plant the divisions serve with the crown just above its previous level above the ground.

9.  Water and beat down the ground to the point that there is probably no underground holes remaining. The level of the crown above the ground now at the point of the original plant.

10.  Keep the soil moist consistently for at least the next few weeks.

Cherry Blossom Seeds Germination

A pretreatment with Stratification (mimic winter germination for certain kinds encourage seed) is recommended for most Cherry Blossom (Sakura) seeds reach high germination rate.

Here are the steps for stratification:

Preparation for Stratification:

1. Zip loc bag
2. Some moist kitchen paper
3. Plant labels
4. 10% Hydrogen peroxide solution(common bleach) *optional but recommended
5. Sieve
6. A pair of gardening gloves 
7. A pair of Tweezers

Steps for Stratification:

1. Rinse the Sakura (Cherry Blossom) seeds gently in a sieve.

2. Use a gardening gloves and soak the Sakura (Cherry Blossom) seeds into the 10% hydrogen peroxide solution for about 10 minutes.* This step is optional but it helps prevent possible molding drastically.

3. Pick up the seeds with a pair of tweezers and put them into a moist kitchen paper, then put them into a zip loc bag. Finish by labeling  them and then refrigerate them. (Do not put into a freezer. Let them stay in the lower part of a refrigerator - the part where you usually store vegetables or fruit will be fine.)

4. Sprouting should start in 2-8 weeks, depending on the variety. Some variety takes up to months to start germination. Check for germination once a week and if necessary ,moisturize the kitchen paper to maintain humidity.   

*If you prefer not to use stratification,starts here:

Here are the steps for direct germination or transferring of seedlings after stratification:

Preparation:

1. Potting mix (detailed in the product listing information and on the seed package).Basically,ask the nursery for a compost for compost designed for Rose should fits well. Preferably,add about 30% of coarse sand (or any sandy soil) to achieve better drainage).The compost should be slightly acidic and a bit sandy. To minimize possible molding problem, make sure the compost you bought is sterile (most commercial compost are). Preferably, buy a new pack instead of using an already opened one.
2. Seed Tray.
3. 10% Hydrogen peroxide solution(common bleach) *optional but recommended
4. Gardening glove
5. A pair of Tweezers
6. Copper based fungicide
7. Sieve

Steps:

1. Rinse the Cherry Blossom seeds gently in a sieve.
2. Use a gardening glove and soak the Sakura (Cherry Blossom) seeds into the 10% hydrogen peroxide solution for about 10 minutes.* This step is optional but it helps prevent possible molding drastically.
3. Pick up the seeds with a pair of Tweezers. Sow your seeds on to the top layers of your growing medium in your pot or in seed trays. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil - not more than 2 cm.**If you have already treat the seeds with stratification,starts here:  transfer the seedlings with a pair of tweezers and plant them into the soil.
4. Light can enhance germination. Try putting the seed tray or pot under sunlight as much as possible. 
5. Maintain a medium level of humidity for the germination by regular watering. 
6. Germination of this type of seed should naturally occurs in 2-8 weeks.
7. (Optional but recommended)Once germinate, or after transferring seedlings from stratification,use a Copper based fungicide to prevent molding problems. Follow instruction on the fungicide label for amount and frequency of application.

Notes:

1. Do not plant the seeds or seedlings under extremely temperature. Temperature below 15 degree Celcius or above 30 degree Celcius normally guarantee a poor result. 
2. Stratification is not necessary if the seeds are very fresh (e.g. just harvested in season). Germination rate decreases longer the seeds is stored. Thus, if you are unsure how long your seeds has been stored, treatment of stratification is highly recommended.