Care of Your Cactus & Propagation

We have compiled some general information about the care and maintenance of cacti and succulents in the following cultural notes. Use these notes as a basic and useful reference guide. Keep in mind that they do not delve into the details, but rather give a broad, general scope of cacti and succulents great.

For further information, you should consult your library for books on cacti and succulents. And you have the plants you grow observe, as they will be your best teachers.

Cacti and succulents, even if they are tough, adaptable plants, not "thrive on neglect." Instead, they consist of neglect, but thrive on tender loving care.

Light Requirements for Cacti & Succulents

Indoors

Give cacti and succulents the brightest light or sunniest window that you can provide. Most cacti and succulents are not happy in shady corners or north-facing windows as they need at least four to six hours of strong light daily if they are grown indoors. Plants with inadequate light may stretch (skinny growth). 

Outdoors

Some cacti and succulents can tolerate full sun. However, it is important to realize that during the hottest days of summer, when the solar radiation exceeds 11,000 foot candles, all plants would welcome some respite from the harsh afternoon sun. Many cacti and succulents prefer to be positioned in an area that receives morning sun, and is protected from the stronger afternoon rays. Some cacti can even sunburn, as in the case of the spineless or naked cacti, unless given some shade in the hottest part of the day. Reddish discoloration, either in part or on the entire plant, is usually the result of overly strong solar radiation. Remember that most cacti and succulents receive shading from grasses, shrubs or trees in their natural habitat, especially when they are young.

Your cacti and succulents will do nicely on a sunny windowsill or very bright spot indoors. However, for those of us not fortunate enough to have sunny windows and rooms, or mild winter climates where plants can be kept outdoors, there is another alternative. Plants can be grown under artificial light using fluorescent tubes. Don't attempt to use regular bulbs as incandescent light is not the proper light spectrum to maintain plants. For a few plants, use two 40-watt fluorescent tubes, either 24 inches long or 48 inches long, depending on the number of plants. Best is one cool white tube or daylight tube and one warm white tube. This will cover the necessary light spectrum needed for plants.

For handling and transplanting smaller plants, thin rubber gloves can be used to protect the fingers. Tongs that have been wrapped with tape or other material to prevent damage to the plant also work well. Larger plants can be handled with a short section of hose wrapped around the plant, or a sling made from a rolled newspaper can be used. 

Water

The general "Rule of Thumb" is: "When you water, water well." However, with succulent plants you must be careful to make sure the plant needs water. Feel the weight of the pot when just watered and when it is dry. A totally dry pot weighs considerably less and is one sign of a thirsty plant. Feel the soil at least one inch down and if the soil is dry it is time to water the plant. Let the water thoroughly drain through the roots and out the bottom, making sure the entire pot of soil is saturated. Drain thoroughly; never let plants sit in water. Use a soil mix that drains well and allows some drying out between waterings. Top dressings, such as small pebbles or coarse gravel, offer quicker water penetration, slower water evaporation, elimination of a crust on the top of the soil, and a neat, attractive appearance. When plants are vigorously growing and blooming, they will need more water. During their non-growing or resting stage, usually in cold winter weather, they will need very little water.

Soil

For practically all intents and purposes, any good cactus and succulent mix, prepared and bagged, and available in many nurseries and garden shops can be used for your cacti and succulents. Or, you can use a high quality planter mix or humus. For this, add two parts perlite or pumice and one part washed building sand. Adjust the ratios according to your growing conditions, climate and the plant in question.

Fertilizer

Most succulents and cacti are benefited by the addition of diluted liquid fertilizer added to the water every second or third watering during their growing season. Any standard houseplant fertilizer with balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash (20-20-20) can be used. It is also convenient to use one of the slow release granular fertilizers. To induce bloom and improve flower size, a fertilizer with low nitrogen and high phosphorous content can be used. Always dilute more than the stated instructions advise, as recommended dosage is too strong for these plants. One caution! If your plants are growing too lushly and/or are losing their characteristic shape, this may be the result of over-fertilizing. As a rule, it is safer to under-fertilize than over-fertilize. We do not recommend fertilizing Mesembs or Stapeliads.

Proper proportions of good drainage, generous but infrequent waterings, regular, diluted feedings, good light and fresh air are the basic needs of your succulent plant.

Temperature

In the winter time, keep your cacti and succulents in temperatures above freezing. They will go dormant and manage just fine in night time temperatures of 35° to 40°F.

Your more tropical succulents like Adeniums, Euphorbias, Epiphyllums, Rhipsalis, Stapeliads, and Zygocactus prefer warmer night time temperatures of between 50° and 60°F. However, if you harden them off by watering less in the fall, they will tolerate temperatures in the mid-thirties.

Other less tropical succulents, like many cacti, Sempervivums, Sedums and Agaves can tolerate lower night time temperatures into the mid-twenties (or less) when they have been gradually acclimated to cold weather.

In the summer, protect your cacti and succulents from extreme heat. If temperatures reach over 100°F, be sure to shade your plants and provide air circulation. When it is both humid and hot, it is particularly important to have good air circulation and careful watering to avoid fungus and rot problems. 

Transplanting

Your newly acquired plants are established in their present pots, but their roots systems have not used all of the space in their pots. They should live and grow in these same pots for at least another few months to a year before re-potting will be necessary. When transplanting, choose one pot size larger. Excess soil in too large a pot may cause soil to sour before roots can grow into and utilize it. Gently tap the plant out of its present pot. Gently brush or scrape away some of the old soil around the root ball, taking care not to disturb the center of the root ball or to break roots. Put some soil mix in the new pot and place the plant on top. Gently fill in around the sides; keep the plant at the same level as it was in the old pot. Let the plant stay dry a few days. This precaution will allow any roots that are damaged or broken during the transplanting process to heal and callous over before watering, avoiding rot of broken roots. When watering, let drain thoroughly.

For handling and transplanting smaller plants, thin rubber gloves can be used to protect the fingers. Tongs also work well. Larger plants can be handled with a short section of hose wrapped around the plant, or even a rolled newspaper can be used.

Propagation

Propagation of Succulents by Seed:

Some succulents, such as Kalanchoe longiflora, and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana are self-fertile (not needing another plant to produce seed). The swollen area that forms at the base of the flower after flowering is called the "fruit" and contains the seed. Other succulents can be cross-pollinated (requiring 2 plants, and where the pollen of one plant is used to pollinate another flower on another flower (known as "cross-pollination"). Usually this is accomplished by bees or other insects, but a curious owner can purchase a small sable hair paint brush and try his or her hand at producing seed to create new plants! For many succulents, the seed is a minute cinnamon-colored "dust". Germination of the seed requires a sterile, fine particle soil mix, heat (approximately 75 to 80°F), reduced light and maintenance of even moisture without being soggy ~ in other words, somewhat analogous to an incubator. A pot is prepared with the fine particle soil mix and is watered thoroughly. The succulent seed is then dispersed on top of the soil, allowing spaces between the seed so that the seedling will have room to grow. (Succulent seedlings are tiny at first, usually less than an 1/8" of an inch in diameter, and, depending upon the species, remain that small for months). The seed is then covered very lightly with a fine particle "top dressing" (such as the same soil but sifted). The seed pan should be watered daily with a very fine mist, making sure that only the top surface is allowed to dry somewhat in 24 hour intervals. Seed should begin to germinate within two weeks, but will appear as tiny bright green dots. As the seedlings approach 6 weeks of age, they can be gradually "weaned" from the water. At this time, the seedlings can be watered every other day except in very hot weather. Depending upon the variety, the seedlings can be "pricked" out at 6 months to a year of age and put in small pots.

Propagation of Succulents by Cuttings:

Use a sharp, sterile knife to prevent tissue damage to the plant, but be careful not to damage your own tissue!

For succulents, it is best to cut the stem to create a cutting that is 2"-3" in height (very small cuttings can often desiccate before rooting).

Allow the cutting to callous for several days to a week (depending upon ambient climate). During this time, a "callus" will form at the cut area. This "callus" is very analogous to the scab that the human body produces for cuts and scrapes. This "callus" or scab provides a two-fold barrier to protect the plant or animal. Fluid cannot leak out (which could lead to desiccation) and bacteria and fungus cannot enter (which could lead to serious disease). After the callus has formed, plant the cutting in a soil mix with extra perlite. The extra perlite will allow the aeration necessary to enable production of healthy roots. Sometimes, if you wait a bit too long before planting your cutting, it may produce "aerial" roots, which are actually capable of absorbing water! This is merely the plant letting you know that it is time to plant it!

 Propagation of Succulents by Leaves:

Another way to propagate some succulents is by leaf cuttings. This procedure will not work for all succulents, but will be very successful with many. It is necessary to very carefully detach a leaf from the stem, making sure the leaf is detached very cleanly, and not torn away. The leaf should be placed in a cool, shady place for several weeks to a month until a tiny "plantlet" begins to form at the base of the leaf. The leaf can then be carefully planted in a porous soil, and should not be allowed to dry completely while the roots form. This may take a few weeks. When the leaf feels "anchored" into the soil, and the "plantlet" begins to grow, the plant can gradually be given normal watering.

There are some plants in the Kalanchoe family that have a fascinating strategy whereby they produce their own "plantlets". Kalanchoe tubiflora, Kalanchoe delagoense, Kalanchoe fedtschenkoi and others produce "plantlets" along the margins of their leaves. When these "plantlets" grow a bit heavy, they begin detaching from the leaves and fall to the ground whereupon they root and produce new plants!

 Propagation of Succulents by Tissue Culture:

This method is only for those with access to a laboratory, but it is a method of producing many plants fairly rapidly from the cells of just one plant. In this process, cells are isolated from plant tissue. Research is done to determine what percentages of various hormones and nutritive elements are required by that particular type of plant. The cells are then placed on agar in petri dishes, and are "transfused" with the hormone and nutrition liquids. The environment must be extremely sanitary and must be kept at a constant humidity and warm temperature (around 70 degrees Fahrenheit). The single cells begin to divide, and produce more cells which become "specialized" to perform various functions, leading to the formation of a new, complete, fully functioning plant from a single cell. Tissue culture propagation is very akin to "cloning".

Propagation of Cacti by Seed:

Cacti can be propagated by seed. Some are self-fertile (not needing another plant to produce seed). The swollen area at the base of the flower after flowering is known as the "fruit" and contains the seed. Other cacti can be cross-pollinated (requiring 2 plants, and where the pollen of one plant is used to pollinate another flower on another flower (known as "cross-pollination"). Usually this is accomplished by bees or other insects, but a curious owner can purchase a small sable hair paint brush and try his or her hand at producing seed to create new plants! The seed of cacti differs greatly; some have seed that is so small that one thousand seeds fill a thimble and others, such as the Pachycereus pringlei, have seed that require a sandwich-sized baggie for 10,000 seeds. Germination of the seed requires a sterile, fine particle soil mix, heat (approximately 75 to 80°F), reduced light and maintenance of even moisture without being soggy ~ in other words, somewhat analogous to an incubator. A pot or flat is prepared with the fine particle soil mix and is watered thoroughly. The cactus seed is then dispersed on top of the soil, allowing spaces between the seed so that the seedling will have room to grow. (Cacti seedlings are tiny at first, usually less than an 1/8" of an inch in diameter, and, depending upon the species, remain that small for months). The seed is then covered very lightly with a fine particle "top dressing" (such as the same soil but sifted). The seed pan should be watered daily with a very fine mist, making sure that only the top surface is allowed to dry somewhat in 24 hour intervals. Seed should begin to germinate within two weeks, but will appear as tiny bright green dots. As the seedlings approach 6 weeks of age, they can be gradually "weaned" from the water. At this time, the seedlings can be watered every other day except in very hot weather. Depending upon the variety, the seedlings can be "pricked" out at 6 months to a year of age and put in small pots.

 Propagation of Cacti by Cuttings:

Cacti can be a bit more problematic as they can be more susceptible to various bacteria and fungi. Some cactus, such a Chamaecereus species and hybrids (commonly known as "Peanut Cactus"), are easily propagated as the joints of these plants detach very readily, leaving very small "open" or susceptible areas. Other examples of cacti that are rather easy to propagate are the Lobivias and Echinopsis, which also have offsets or "pups" that can be easily detached, and Opuntias, which have "ears" or segments that are easily detached. Other cacti, which do not have natural "detachment points", such as a Cereus or other columnars, will require a larger cut with a knife, thereby leaving a larger area susceptible to bacteria and fungi. It is advisable to allow any larger cut, depending upon the girth of the cut, more time to "callous" and form the callus tissue that is similar to a "scab". A week to 10 days should be sufficient. A further preventative measure requires dipping the newly cut cutting in a rooting hormone powder (available at garden centers). These rooting hormones often contain a fungicide which will help to prevent rot. After time necessary to "callous" has elapsed, plant the cutting in a porous soil mix and water lightly in about a week. Water occasionally until signs that the plant has begun to root are apparent ( such as roots at the base or some new growth at the tip. After the plant has rooted, regular watering can be resumed.

Propagation of Cacti by Tissue Culture:

Cacti can also be propagated successfully by tissue culture. This method is only for those with access to a laboratory, but it is a method of producing many plants fairly rapidly from the cells of just one plant. In this process, cells are isolated from plant tissue. Research is done to determine what percentages of various hormones and nutritive elements are required by that particular type of plant. The cells are then placed on agar in petri dishes, and are "transfused" with the hormone and nutrition liquids. The environment must be extremely sanitary and must be kept at a constant humidity and warm temperature (around 70°F). The single cells begin to divide, and produce more cells which begin to become "specialized" to perform various functions, and a new, complete, fully functioning plant is formed from a single cell. Tissue culture propagation is very akin to "cloning".

Propagation of Cacti and Succulents by Grafting:

One other method that is used for propagation is grafting. Grafting is a process that unites one cactus with another cactus (usually one that grows faster or is less problematic). This process is often utilized in the nursery industry to quickly increment numbers of a newly created or discovered plant. The plant that sits on top of the other plant is known as the "scion", and is connected vascularly ( in other words, all water and nutrients ascend the vascular system of the lower plant into the vascular system of the upper plant at the point of unification. The lower plant, known as the "stock" is always the strongest and fastest growing plant, has its roots into the ground, where it absorbs nutrients for both plants. The upper plant benefits greatly from this unification; it grows faster, is now immune to such diseases as root rots that previously may have plagued the plant when it was on its own roots, and oftentimes offsets more readily than when on its own roots. One last unique benefit of grafting concerns those plants born without chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is the material in the plant that enables photosynthesis (the process by which plants create the energy necessary for new growth and other processes). Chlorophyll also contributes to the green color of plants. But occasionally, a plant is born without chlorophyll (and is known as achlorophyllus) or is born with very small amounts of chlorophyll. These plants can survive for a while on their own roots, but eventually will succumb as they lack the chlorophyll necessary to create the energy for growth and other life processes. One well-known example of this occurrence involves the cacti known as "Moon Cactus" ( actually Gymnocalycium mihanovichii "Rubra' and cultivars). It was noticed that many of these tiny seedlings were very beautiful, occurring in an array of colors including oranges, pinks, yellows, reds, and multicolored combinations. It was discovered that when these tiny seedlings were grafted onto strong plants, such as the epiphyte Hylocereus, that these seedlings not only survived but began to grow quickly and thrive!

Grafting is not a difficult process, but requires excellent sanitation and quick motions to succeed. The materials necessary are two plants, a very sharp utensil such as an exacto knife, isopropyl alcohol, paper towels or clean rag, and some item that will physically unite the two cacti(such as rubber bands), and maintain pressure on the cut portions to enable the fusion of the two cacti. The first consideration is that both plants are in excellent health, with "pumped up" tissues, and are growing actively. The plants should not be old enough that the tissue is lignified (woody). As sanitation is very important, the knife or utensil to be used to make the slices must sterilized, such as by dipping into isopropyl alcohol. The blade should be dipped after each cut, and wiped with a clean rag or paper towel. It is important to work as quickly as possible. Once the cuts have been made, the cut surfaces should be joined together as quickly as possible, to prevent entry of bacteria or fungi and to prevent the open tissue from desiccating. Grafting is usually more successful when done on warm, but not excessively hot or bright days. Some humidity in the air is preferable (to prevent premature drying of the cut surfaces), but it is best not to graft after many days of overcast, humid weather as there may be many fungus spores present in the air.

The actual process entails cutting the plant that will be the "stock" (this is the plant that is securely rooted into a pot, and is the faster-growing of the two plants) with a sharp utensil that can make the slice in one motion as to prevent "sawing back an forth" (which can cause tissue damage to the plant). The tips of the ribs at the cut portion should be trimmed downward ¼" or so, to prevent the center of the "stock" from atrophying away from point of attachment. A very thin slice should be removed from the flat tip. This slice should immediately be replaced over the cut surface, to prevent desiccation of the plant below. The next step is to cut the plant that is to be the "scion" or upper plant. This plant should be cut at the base of the plant. The base should be similarly trimmed, with small upward cuts at the bases of the ribs. At this point, quickly remove the thin slice that is on top of the base, and place the "scion" on top of the other plant, in such a way that the vascular "bundles" are aligned. It is usually only necessary to have a portion of the "scion" aligned with the vascular "bundles"; it is not necessary to have all vascular bundles perfectly aligned. One word of caution at this point; the fluid inside cacti is often very "slimy". Trying to unite these two "slippery devils" and then applying pressure from a rubber band can have very "interesting" consequences. Unless you have some prior experience, it is not unusual to apply the rubber band, sit back to contemplate your deft skills, only to notice that the "scion" is "missing" (sometimes halfway across the room)! For this reason, it is often wise to "practice" on some "extra" plants before trying to graft that "favorite plant". Quickly place the rubber band or other elastic retaining band over the top of the "scion" and secure under the pot. This will gently apply pressure to the two pieces, causing them to “fuse” more readily. Certain alternate methods are sometimes used, such as tape or bands with small weights on either side, but these do not provide the necessary elasticity. Some have even claimed to join the two plants with long cactus spines or super glue, but this is not the recommended procedure. The newly joined graft should be carefully placed warm, shady location for several weeks. Do not "spray" graft with water. A few days after the graft has been joined, it is OK to carefully water the soil only, avoiding splashing on the plant. Constant air circulation will be beneficial to prevent rotting. After a few weeks, if it is apparent that the graft is a success, the rubber band or other retaining band can be carefully removed. If the graft has been a success, the "scion" will have noticeable "plumped" and there should be evidence of shiny new growth at the tip of the "scion". If the graft is not successful, the "scion" will be "rejected" by the "stock" and will usually fall off. If the plant is to be moved, do so very carefully as the fusion is rather tenuous at this point. Continue to water the plant by watering the soil only. After a few more weeks, the graft can be watered normally.

Hybridizing

Hybridizing is a technique that is used to manipulate the genetics of two plants with the goal to imbue the newly created plant with enhanced characteristics, such as larger flowers, increased quantity of flowers, increased number of offsets, or other such improvements. Often, an added bonus when combining the genetics of two individuals with outstanding characteristics includes increased robustness, faster growth or more resistance to certain diseases, insects or viruses. Hybridizers will observe thousands of seedlings, noting various characteristics and will "select" or "hi-grade" those with the most outstanding characteristics. These will be used to produce future plants of a superior quality.

The exciting part of hybridizing is that one never completely knows what might happen. Although on the first level of genetics, it is fairly predictable what characteristics the progeny will have, there can always be surprises, especially when dealing with complex combinations of hybrids cross-pollinated with true species. Many times, a recessive gene from several generations in the past can recombine with a newly created gene, causing an unpredictable and often fascinating characteristic in the new hybrid. 

Lets Build a Cactus Garden

Materials

Large rocks, potting mix

To start your garden look for a sunny, well-drained area. For a lot of us, this will be hard to do. Our yards are too flat, so we have to build raised beds. I like to build my bed so that there will be no chance of the plants becoming water logged. First draw an outline on the ground of the garden. Don't make it to large, you can always expand. Now take out some of the top soil (6" to 12") deep. Then place a narrow strip of plastic where the rocks will be, let it extend into the hole a few inches, this will help control grass from getting in the garden. Now place the rocks around the hole, don't make it round or square, do a natural look. If the garden is to be facing the street you can go two or three rocks high in the back. Now fill the hole to the top of the rocks with your soil mix. A good cactus mix is: one part potting mix, one part washed sand, and one part large (gravel, pumas, broken clay pots,) most anything that will help keep the soil loose. If the garden is to be level, mound up the mix to make it show better and increase drainage.

Now Lets Plant

Take all your plants and set them in the garden to give you an idea as to where to put them. Dig a small hole in the mix just deep enough to cover the roots, leaving the cactus body on top of the soil. Cactus that are not winter hardy can be used by leaving them in the pot. Just bury the pot so they can be removed and taken in for the winter. Give the plants a small amount of water ever two or three weeks until they root. Then let nature pay the water bill. Feed once a year with a plant food like 10-10-10 or good house plant food. Never overfeed, this is where a little does better. A few large well placed rocks will add protection from the hot sun, and help hold moisture, and it just looks good. Now go build that garden and save water.

Aeonium Tabuliforme

Family

Crassulaceae

Botanical Name

AEONIUM tabuliforme

Plant Common Name

Aeonium, Saucer Plant

Imagine a plant that looks like it is flattened to the ground as if stepped on by an elephant. It is saucer plant. This strange low-growing perennial tender form a flat, round rosette succulent leaves. It is native to the coastal cliffs of Tenerife in the Canary Islands and is well adapted to salt spray and strong winds. Each rosette survive as a biennial or short-lived perennial, reproducing by seed or puppies resulting from the base of the mother plant.

Spoon-shaped, bright green leaves with hairy margins exist for the flat, wide rosettes of this juicy. Mature specimens can be as wide as big boards growth. In the spring, adult rosettes produce singular flower stalks of their centers. On top every green stem is a loose cluster of many small, starry flowers. The flowers can be yellow-green, pale yellow or white, depending on the plant. After flowering and seeds fall rosettes will wither and die.

Growth saucer plant in fast-draining, porous soil and partial sun. In the wild, it grows on cliffs that face away from direct sunlight. Protect from frost and intense heat of the sun rays that can burn the foliage, especially in dry climates. In frost-free outdoor landscapes, this juicy grow almost all year round, becoming semi-dormant in the hottest part of the summer. Keep the soil slightly moist during the hottest months and drier during the cooler times of the year. Avoid water on the leaves or simply it to high humidity. Plant it as a houseplant in a warm, bright room or outside as a low-growing plant specimen in a shady rock garden.

Characteristics

AHS Heat Zone
9 - 1

USDA Hardiness Zone
10 - 15

Sunset Zone
16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
  
Plant Type
Cactus or Succulent

Sun Exposure
Partial Sun, Partial Shade

Height
3"-5" / 7.6cm - 12.7cm

Width
6"-20" / 15.2cm - 50.8cm

Bloom Time
Spring, Late Spring
    
Native To
Canary Islands

Growing Conditions

Soil pH
Neutral

Soil Drainage
Well Drained

Soil type
Sand
    
Growth Rate
Medium
    
Water Requirements
Drought Tolerant
    
Habit
Rosette/Stemless

Seasonal Interest
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Ornamental Features

Flower Interest
Showy

Flower Color
Light Yellow, Yellow Green
    
Foliage Color (Spring)
Light Green
    
Foliage Color (Summer)
Light Green
    
Foliage Color (Fall)
Light Green
    
Foliage Color (Winter)
Light Green
    
Fragrant Flowers
No
    
Flower Petal Number
Single

Repeat Bloomer
No
    
Showy Fruit
No
    
Edible Fruit
No
    
Showy Foliage
Yes
    
Foliage Texture
 Medium
    
Foliage Sheen
Matte
    
Evergreen
Yes
    
Showy Bark
No

Special Characteristics

Usage
Container, Houseplant, Rock Garden / Wall 

Sharp or Has Thorns
No

Invasive
No
    
Self-Sowing
No

Care & Maintenance

Planting

1.     Dig holes or beds wide, not deep
2.     Gently remove plants from containers, keeping the root ball intact
3.     Plant level with surrounding soil, spreading roots outward
4.     Fill around roots with native soil
5.     Water to settle soil around roots
6.     Stake large plants to prevent excess movement in strong winds

Watering

1.     Most of these plants prefer, or even require, periods of drought
2.     Water slowly, and allow to dry completely between soakings
3.     Jungle-type epiphytic cacti (live naturally in trees) can tolerate watering more often

Pruning

1.     Prune only to remove wayward, dead, diseased, or top-heavy growth
2.   When possible, propagate the cuttings by inserting into clean, well-drained potting soil to share with others

Propagation

1. Most cacti and succulents can be propagated by small stem cuttings that are allowed to dry out for a few days or weeks before replanting in slightly moist, well-drained potting soil
2. Many succulents can be grown from leaf cuttings, or even individual leaves that sprout new plants at their base when put into contact with moist soil
3. Seed may be sown onto well-drained potting soil and kept lightly moist until they germinate, then transplant into small containers

Fertilization

Most cacti and succulents can go long periods with little or no fertilizer
Use a good-quality cactus fertilizer, or fertilizer with low nitrogen content, according to directions
Lightly scatter fertilizer around the base of plants
If using liquid plant food, use at or less than recommended strength; never over-fertilize cactus

Sowing and cultivation information for Aeonium, Aichryson & Greenovia

Origin

These fascinating genera of succulents belong to the orpine family or stonecrop family (Crassulaceae) and are mainly endemic to the Canary islands, Spain. Few species only are found on Madeira (Aeonium glandulosum, respectively Aeonium glutinosum), in Eritrea and Ethiopia, East Africa (Aeonium stuessyi, respectively Aeonium leucoblepharum), in the Anti-Atlas mountain range in south-western Morocco (Aeonium arboreum = syn. Aeonium korneliuslemsii, as well as a couple of little know Aichryson species) and last but not least on the Cape Verde

islands (only Aeonium gorgoneum).

The Genus Aeonium

At least for the genus Aeonium it is supposed that all taxa derive from a single Prototype "Aeonium" which had been growing some 19 million years ago in the former area of the "Thetys" ocean (which is now the Mediterranean area) and of which some seeds incidentally arrived at the Canary Islands, raising from the Atlantic Ocean in that era. Due to drastic climatic changes over the past 15 million years in that area, in which for example the great Sahara desert in North Africa developed, the prototype vanished and left a disjunctional gap between populations in eastern Africa and the Canary islands.

Which had completely been separated by the desert. Because of rather unfavorable climatic conditions in eastern Africa only two new species were able to develop in this area (Aeonium stuessyi and Aeonium leucoblepharum), whereas on the Canary islands some astonishing 40 taxa arose in a process of evolutionary radiation and vicariation. 

Aeonium populations in south-western Morocco and on the Cape Verde archipelago most likely derive from Canarian ancestors, whereas the decency of Aeonium glutinosum and Aeonium glandulosum on Madeira is still questionable, as it seems that Aeonium nobile (endemic to la Palma, Canary islands) derives from Aeonium glutinosum. At present some 39 valid taxa have been described and for a couple of recent discoveries in the last years a valid description is pending. The provisional names of the latter species bear a suffix like "sp. nov. ined.", "ssp. nov. ined." or "var. nov. ined." in our listings. Tenerife shows the highest diversity in the genus Aeonium, with some 12 species, out of which 10 are endemic to this island. The abundance of endemic species is most likely a result of the enormous geological and climatic niches on this island. Each species of Aeonium is perfectly adapted to its more or less restricted habitat. Some species appear in the lower xerophytic zone (succulent shrub), which starts only few meters above sea-level, such as Aeonium lindleyi in the north-eastern part of the Anaga Mountain range on Tenerife, Aeonium percaneum in open lava formations on the eastern part of Gran Canaria and Aeonium lancerottense as its counter-part on Lanzarote. 

However the majority of Aeonium species prefer a more balanced and semihumid climate on north-facing sides of all western islands (La Palma, El Hierro, La Gomera and Tenerife) as well as on Gran Canaria, at some hundred meter above sea-level. The tropical trade winds from the North have to climb up

the central mountain ranges, which are between some 800m to almost 2.000 m in height. The winds cool down results in a condensation of humidity. Under these conditions, yet in separated habitats, most Aeonium species occur.

Two species with rather untypical habitats grow on Tenerife: Aeonium smithii in the subalpine zone of the Cañadas depression and the "Valle de Ucanca" (Ucanca Valley) in the southern part of the Cañadas at some 2.100 m above sea level and on the other hand Aeonium cuneatum from quite the contrary environment, namely the evergreen and rather humid laurel forest in both, the eastern and the western part of Tenerife.

All Aeonium species either grow as perennials or small, semi-woody shrubs. Aeonium hierrense (El Hierro) and Aeonium urbicum and Aeonium urbicum ssp. meriodonalis (both from Tenerife), Aeonium appendiculatum (La Gomera), as well as Aeonium nobile (La Palma) and Aeonium tabuliforme (Tenerife) flower only one time in their life. After that they slowly die down, leaving millions of dust like seeds for the next generation. In all other species the flowering rosette will die down as well, however, it will make new offsets below so that plants keep on growing vegetatively. 

What you might find at your local garden store offered as "Aeonium" has seldom anything to do with the real species. You might be very disappointed to know that those plants usually are hybrids and cultivars of little botanical value, and will hardly survive in your cultivation, except for the commonly offered Aeonium arboreum "Zwartkop", which is a selected cultivar. Most specimens of Aeonium "Atropurpureum" are degenerated due to excessive ongoing hybridization. However this plant definitely does not descend from the real species Aeonium arboreum (now botanically corrected to Aeonium korneliuslemsii). The real species Aeonium arboreum is found at only very few sites in coastal mountains of the south-western Morocco and does not occur on the Canaries, nor is it offered at any nursery specialized in succulents in the world. If you haven't seen the vigor and beauty of a real Aeonium arboreum flowering, then you might think Aeonium "Zwartkop" is an ornamental species. What makes a correct identifcation and species' seggregation even worse is that numerous old, invalid synonyms (such as Aeonium pseudotabuliforme) or even "fantasy" names are still in use in order to have a very broad offer. Private enthusiasts, who would like to build up a botanical collection, might become frustrated when they realize that what they grow is of little horticultural value. Furthermore, all Aeonium species from the Canaries easily hybridize, and even intergeneric hybrids between Aeonium and Greenovia do naturally occur (= x Greenonium). So what you might be sold as for example Aeonium holochrysum rarely does represent a true-totype plant. All our seeds are from true-to-type specimens. When you buy seeds from us, you will be sure to get the species you would like to grow!

The Genus Aichryson

Some 10 endemic Aichryson taxa occur on the Canary islands and another at least 6 taxa outside this archipelago. Aichryson usually share their habitat with either Aeonium or Greenovia species, yet in general they prefer more sheltered and humid places, as they either grow as fragile weeds or low subshrubs. They have numerus, rather large, usually bright yellow flowers and are as easy to grow as are Aeonium species. In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill. In our shop you will find the most complete selection of seeds from Aichryson species, which you will ever see throughout the world!

The Genus Greenovia

The genus Greenovia consists of only 4 taxa (Greenovia aizoon, Greenovia aurea, Greenovia diplocycla and Greenovia dodrentalis), out of which 3 species occur on the island of Tenerife. Most of them grow in north-facing rock crevices in the "Barrancos" (typical deep-cut valleys, especially on the western islands and on Gran Canaria). Due to their dense rosettes and brilliant green, glaucous color of their leaves, these plants are locally called "rosas del monte" (mountain roses). All species (except Greenovia diplocycla) offset rather freely, whereas the mother-plant will slowly die down after flowering. Greenovia aizoon is one of the rarest of all endemic species on this archipelago and can be found in very limited localities on Tenerife only. Greenovia dodrentalis used to have its main locality in the Barranco de Masca on Tenerife, yet due to excessive touristic activities (especially hiking and probably "incidentally" plant collection) its' populations have decreased significantly in recent years so that it has become threatened with extinction. All Greenovia species form perfect, very dense rosettes and a single large inflorescence of numerous yellow flowers before the mother plant will die down. They are highly ornamental species due to their dense rosette of glaucous leaves which will close almost completely during summer, if plants are not watered. The outer leaves will then whither and turn orange-red or whitish-beige. As soon as temperatures will decrease in autumn in combination with a raise in air humidity, the dry-looking rosettes will restart their growth and completely unfold within few weeks. In our shop you will find seeds from all Greenovia species and even a new discovery, namely Greenovia diplocylca var. gigantea from La Gomera, which makes huge rosettes embedded in paper-like whitish-beige dry leaves in summer - a superb new species!

Sowing and Cultivation

Sowing of Aeonium, Aichryson, Greenovia and their relatives within the oprine family from the Canaries, Madeira and the Mediterranean region (e. g. several

Sedum and Umbilicus species) is very easy. for most adopt very well to different cultivation conditions. All species can be virtually grown in any substrate, which should be very well draining and rather pH-neutral (~ pH 7). Use any soil which you would use for cacti or any other succulents, for example. In general the substrate should be rather inorganic, i. e. it should consist of few parts of humus only. All smaller species, including all Greenovia as well as most Sedum

species should be given some extra crushed lava, some grit sand or some pumice in order to enhance drainage. Aeonium cuneatum and other species from the semi-moist laurel forest (such as most Aichryson and all Umbilicus species) may be given some extra parts of humus (up to 50% vol.), e. g. some old, well-matured compost. Sow the dust-like seeds very thin and evenly on the substrate's surface. Do not cover seeds with soil. It is recommendable to use only about one third of the seeds supplied per species for a first try. If too many seeds are sowed, within few days a "carpet" of seedlings will develop. Later these numerous seedlings will suppress each other in growth. You may want to store unused seeds in the original sealed package in a refrigerator (not in the freezer!!), where they will maintain an overall high viability for at least 5 years. Water sowing always from beneath in order not to shed the seeds from the surface and keep pots in a warm and partially shaded spot at between 15°C and 25°C. Temperatures above 25°C will inhibit germination for seeds will enter a heat induced dormancy till they may eventually germinate with decreasing temperatures. Germination occurs quite fast and evenly within some 7 to 21 days. As soon as seedlings appear, place them into direct sunlight (during winter months), respectively into partial shade (during summer months) and never let dry out the soil completely. Many species in these genera will enter a more or less pronounced dormancy period during hot weather in summer months in Central Europe. With rising temperatures in early summer most plants will more or less close their rosettes and/or will lose most of their leaves in order to protect themselves from dissection by reducing surfaces of assimilation and transpiration. However, plants in cultivation do much better if they are not "baked" in summer, as it usually happens in their natural habitats. Keep them always slightly moist, thus they will grow faster and will gain flowering size sooner. During winter all smaller species should be placed in a sunny and warm spot with slightly reduced watering. Under these conditions, some species might start to flower towards the end of spring or in early summer already. Larger shrublike and somewhat woody species, such as Aeonium manriqueorum, Aeonium ciliatum, Aeonium davidbramwellii, as well as the giant species such as Aeonium hierrense and Aeonium undulatum might be kept at cooler temperatures during winter as long as soil is kept almost completely dry.

Under these conditions plants may shrink significantly and most likely they will loose most of their leaves, so that only the compact center of the leaf rosette will survive. New leaves will soon emerge within few weeks in spring with rising temperatures and increased watering. Most species will hence develop their ornamental inflorescences. For certain species with deviant horticultural requirements some additional instructions and information are given on the main page for these genera. Note: All offered seeds are from true-totype plants and derive from artificially propagated plants.

Cactus Mammillaria

The genus Mammillaria is one of the largest in the cactus family (Cactaceae), with currently 171 known species and varieties recognized. Most of the mammillarias are native to Mexico, but some come from the southwest USA, the Caribbean, Colombia, Venezuela, Guatemala and Honduras. The common name "pincushion cactus" refers to this and the closely related genus Escobaria.

The first species was described by Carolus Linnaeus as Cactus mammillaris in 1753, deriving its name from Latin mammilla, "nipple", referring to the tubercles that are among the distinctive features of the genus. In 1812, the cactus specialist Adrian Haworth described the genus Mammillaria to contain this and related species. Numerous species are commonly known as nipple cactus, fishhook cactus or pincushion though such terms may also be used for related taxa, particularly Escobaria.

Growing Cactus from seeds is not very difficult, even if it takes patience and purpose. All attempts cacti from seeds is to haphazardly rarely result in mature plants. And so it is in nature. Many thousands of seeds are produced reached for each individual plant maturity. Fortunately, we were able to significantly improve these odds by following a few best practices. This article is intended as a general overview of seed and I am not suggesting that the method described here is the only way to do this nor can I say that it is better than other methods. Rather, this is only one method, which has produced positive results. It is my goal to encourage others cactus enthusiasts try their own hand at seed breeding. I myself have learned that fails down from more experienced breeders after miserably to do it on my own methods described. I still do not consider myself an expert on the subject and in this sense, should not be discouraged if you do not get it right the first time.

Getting Started

The first thing we need to sow seeds is some pots. Seedlings are very small and grow fairly slowly, so 2inch pots are sufficient. There seems to be an unwritten philosophy among seed growers that the cheaper the seed growing setup the better. This is not to skimp on meeting the needs of the seedlings, but to do utilize existing materials as much as possible. One of the ways to raise seeds on the cheap is to reuse pots.

Another way is to use leftover food containers or other similar items. In this case, I had a number of small plastic tubs that mealworms come in for feeding my reptiles. These containers did not have holes in the bottom, so I drilled some. As we will see later, the seedlings will be in 100% humidity and therefore drainage holes are useless. I added them because I wanted to be able to keep the seedlings growing in the same pot as long as possible to avoid early transplanting risks. If I were to transplant them immediately after moving them to an open air environment, then I would have skipped the holes.

When reusing pots, it is important to clean them to avoid potential fungus, algae, or other pests that may quickly kill delicate seedlings. Taking some precautions up front to prevent pests and disease is far easier than trying to fend off threats after germination. Cactus seedlings are especially sensitive when small and fungicides or insecticides can kill or weaken the cactus seedlings. Some people add a mild fungicide when sowing, but proper sterilization should eliminate the need for this. To clean the pots, I soaked them in bleach water for a good while and then rinsed them thoroughly

Next, we need to prepare some soil. I use my standard cactus soil mix and sift out the larger pieces. You can read about cactus soil mixes on this articles . I found a child's beach toy to be a perfect tool for this job. Of course, the soil must be dry in order to sift it. After the large parts are removed, I wet the soil so that it is damp throughout, but not soggy. Then the soil goes into the microwave for 4-6 minutes depending on how much soil there is. This is to sterilize the soil and kill any potential threats to the seedlings. It is best to stop partway through and mix the soil. Be careful as it can be very hot in parts and cool in others. Some people bake the soil in an oven for the same purpose.

Again, using your typical soil mix won't work for every species, but should be fine on more common species. When you get into some of the more challenging species, your best bet is to seek out advice from other growers that have tried that same species. Some species are extremely slow and will be in the seedling environment for well past a year. Some species will not tolerate the same amount of organic material as others.

After the soil has cooled some, we are ready to fill our pots. It will cool even more as you do this. I use an empty pot as a scoop and fill the pots right to the top. Once filled, I tap the pot and smooth out the surface with my finger. This prevents the seeds from falling down any large gaps in the soil surface. Then I sprinkle the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. In the picture below-right, I pointed out a couple of the seeds using red arrows. The green arrows are pointing to fertilizer. I like to use a time release fertilizer like Osomocote as it will slowly release as the seedlings grow. Note: This process can be a bit messy so I used a flat cardboard box as a work tray. When finished, I just dispose of the cardboard and clean-up is done.

Unless you are one of the few growers who don't care about names, it is critical that you carefully label the pots as you go. Seeds and seedlings can look very similar for the first few years. Even at maturity, some species are a challenge to ID properly without knowing the origins of the seeds. Melocactus are one example in particular, but there are many others. There are several ways you can go about this and most people put a tag in the pot with the full plant name and collection number if applicable. In my case, I numbered the pots on four sides. Then I entered the names with the corresponding number in a spreadsheet on my computer. In this way, I can easily update it with notes as germination occurs or when I transplant them later on. Often people keep track of the number of seeds sewn and monitor the germination rate for each one. I didn't do that this time, mostly because I forgot! 

After the seeds are in place, I take some of my sifted soil pinched between my fingers and sprinkle it over the seedlings until they are just covered. It is not necessary for the seeds to be covered, but helps to support them once they start to grow. Each species is different and some need light to germinate so consult the CactiForum if you are unsure about this. At this point, I take a spray bottle and give the plants a good soaking. The soil is already damp from our pre-microwave wetting and now I saturate it until the water just drips out the bottom. Be careful to use only a light spray for this or you might wash the seeds right out of the pot. 

For this article, I chose to use the "baggie method" which is a popular technique among growers worldwide. In this way, I place each pot of fresh-sown seeds in a ziplock baggie and seal it shut. This method has several benefits. It eliminates the need for watering as the moisture will condense inside the bag and soak back into the soil providing a constant moist environment for the seedlings. This kind of environment works best for most cactus seedlings despite the fact that it would quickly kill a mature cactus. A second benefit is that the sealed bag keeps out undesirables like fungus, gnats, or other pests. Even if you sterilize the soil and pots as we did earlier, if the pot is not sealed, many pests will find the warm/moist environment too good to pass up. And they will find the tender green cactus seedlings to feed on just an added bonus!

Seedlings will appreciate bright light, but will not do well in full sun. The sun is too strong for almost all seedlings and in the wild they usually start growing in the protection of a rock or other plant. With this caution in mind, placing the pots in a bright spot under a shelf in the greenhouse or in a window that gets sun for only part of the day is a good option. For even better control, however, artificial lighting is ideal. You can find more information on which lighting setup to use for seedlings at the end of the artificial lighting article. In my case, I used two lighting hoods that I already had for keeping reptiles with a compact florescent bulb in each one. For a propagator, I kept with cheap-seed-raising tradition and used a 10 gallon aquarium that I already had. I used a piece of stiff cardboard for a lid and cut holes in it for the light domes. Since the pots are in baggies, I do not have to worry about keeping the whole propagator humid or sealed up. Since the aquarium is clear glass, much of the light that should be going to the seedlings is escaping into the room. This was easily remedied by taping some white scrap paper around the outside of the tank to reflect the light back in.

I stuck a thermometer at one end and cut out the paper so that I could see it without opening the propagator. Most cactus seedlings like a temperature of 70F - 90F to germinate. This is a general statement, of course. Some species, such as Ferocactus may not germinate at the low end of that and you'll have to turn up the heat. Many people use a heating pad on the bottom for controlling temperature. If you do, be sure that you use it in conjunction with a thermostat or it could overheat quickly. 

Conclusion

Hopefully, in this brief article, I've been able to inspire you to give seed raising a try. As you see, there is a bit more effort required than just picking a cactus off the rack at a nursery. Some thought needs to go into the process along with taking the proper precautions. If at first you don't succeed, adjust your methods and give it another try. Start with common species and get advice from other growers. Finally, if you're on a tight budget, your frugal and innovative approach will be admired by even the most expert seed-sower.