For seeds to germinate is not an exact science, but a few general knowledge of science helps to get off seed to a good start.
Water, air, light
Seed should be moist to germinate. During planting, water the seedbed planting the seeds to the depth set on the seed packet, and then enter the soil lightly and water the bed.
According to an article in the growth of the market, most vegetables (as opposed to flowers) is whether or not they light or darkness when germinate. Celery and lettuce do better with more light, so sown on the surface with a very light covering of soil.
Seed should germinate oxygen to so do not let them drown in too much water. Well drained soil will help prevent. Organic matter in the soil will help the soil is well drained and also crusting. Crusted soil is difficult for seeds.
Watering after sowing and must face regularly. Seeds should always damp. Spray the seeds with a fine mist will reduce soil disturbance.
Soaking
Seeds soaked before planting. It helps seeds absorb all the water they need. After the week seeds will have a smaller amount of water needed to maintain their moisture level. This pre-soaking works better for large seeds and less likely to clump together when pre-soaked. Small seeds can drained and mixed with dry materials such as coffee grounds or oatmeal reduces the clumping.
Soak the seeds overnight as they grow seeds such as beans and peas. Week smaller seeds for a shorter time. Seeds should not be so long that the soaked seed skin splits. They will lose nutrients and more vulnerable to disease attacks.
Pre-sprouting
Seeds sprouted before they go into the ground. The benefits are that you much better control over the environment the seed may have. After soaking the seeds as described above, drain the water and put seeds on a piece of window screen or in a small sieve. Put them in a cool place and rinse them twice a day. An alternative for keeping them wet their turn gently in wet paper towels.
Branch seeds just until they germinate to prevent break down more sprouts. If you are not ready to plant, you can put the seeds in the refrigerator to slow down growth.
This pre-emergence process can also be done to test whether old seeds are still viable. Only pre-sprout a few of the questionable seeds to see how they are doing.
Extra Heat
Most seeds will germinate without additional heat, but for a faster, more robust growth, a heat mat is a wonderful invention. This works especially well if you germination station in a cool room, basement or garage.
I have this Hydrofarm heat mat is used with great success. Gently and reliably heated seeds. My seeds heat like this looks fantastic with additional heat. These include tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, squash, cucumbers and melons. I find it particularly carpet well made and durable. It uses only 45 watts of power to warm the root area 10 to 20 degrees over the ambient temperature. For security-conscious, I would like this mat is UL listed and have a waterproof construction. I wish it had a power cord that is longer than his six feet.
When using a heat mat your seed so quickly that you need to keep an eye on them to prevent them germinate leggy. Make sure you set up your grow lights, because they go very quickly possible, within 2-3 days, depending on what you plant.
Optimal germination outdoor environments
Here are two tables with germination preferred temperatures. The first is the soil temperature. Among these are the air temperatures.
Land - not air - temperature is the trigger for germination. Soil temperature change gradually. Factors that influence the process includes exposure soil to sunlight, texture, moisture content and surface (low-lying, flat or mounded).
Gardeners can expect particular soil temperatures to bring specific results. Most germinate cool-loving vegetable garden only when the soil reaches an average 45 degrees. Seed for warm-loving plants wait until the typical temperatures above 55 F.
The only sure way to know when it is safe to plant is to take the temperature of the soil.
Buy a thermometer with metal research offers a flat dial that low readings (in other words, not an oven temperature meat thermometer, although it looks similar). Plan to take the temperature of your garden between 10 and 11:00 - the midpoint between when daily temperatures coolest (dawn) and warmest (late afternoon). Press the thermometer 1.5-2 inches into the ground at various locations.
I use this digital thermometer ground. It is easy to read with its digital display and it takes to stabilize only about 30 seconds and sign my soil temperature. It's really nice to this land information verified quickly and easily.
Do the thermometer in the ground. Store it indoors between lectures.
A strong, prolonged cold front may take soil temperatures again, especially just after they eventually warm up to 45 or 55 F in the spring. Because soil temperatures are likely to rise and fall as slow but a reading of 45 or 55 degrees usually means it is safe to plant.
To planted early is not always fatal for seeds. Many will just sit and wait for the soil to warm. But with warm-loving crops in particular, the seeds can remain viable for very long. If they germinate, their delaying effect on the plant health or output.
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